Coming up on a year! (Part 1)

I was recently asked if I have adapted entirely to the culture. My answer was an absolute no. I don’t think that is entirely possible. After all, I started 23 years behind everyone else! Then on second thought, I considered how comfortable I am navigating through my daily life, through the chance meetings, and insignificant exchanges. I considered how I am now comfortable in my own clothing and own skin, even confident! I considered how often I am mistaken for a native specifically, of Russian origin (until I open my mouth and Turkmen inevitably comes out!). I think perhaps I’m doing pretty well in the whole cultural adaptation arena. However, there are still moments when I do a mental jaw drop at just how different life is here. Here are some recent jaw drops:

Cultural Moments

1. First, it is very common to wish people ‘bon appetite’ when they are eating. Especially if they are eating and you are not. Usually this doesn’t happen at organized meals. My teachers have translated this to ‘good appetite.’ So, during my breaks when I eat lunch I am constantly encouraged to be hungry! Ha!

Anyway, I occasionally stop by the bazaar on the way to or from work. Usually, I will purchase a kilo of apples, a couple bananas, or maybe a sweet roll. I then cart my haul to my next destination before partaking of the bounty. However, one day I was particularly hungry and pulled out my sweet roll to much on while still walking to work. As I was putting the roll to my mouth, I was greeted with a loud ‘Bon Appetite!’ from the stranger walking past me on the street. I was shocked. Stopped walking. And looked at him. He didn’t even turn around. I continued down the street and within 20 seconds received another one! I couldn’t help laughing! Two complete strangers had just politely applauded, even spurred on my street side roll ingestion.

2. I gave my students pictures of famous people to practice describing appearance. I did my best to stick to people they would know. These people included: Shakira, Obama, Enrique Iglesias, Tess (Me!), Putin, and Julia Roberts among others. They doubly surprised because first, they did not recognize Akon because they did not expect him to be black and second, they had no idea who Albert Einstein is. They did appreciate the fact that most people have long hair but that he had tall hair. J

3. Again on the subject of appearances, I was not at all surprised when my female students admitted to having short red hair despite the fact that they all have long black braids reaching down to their waist from underneath the ornately embroidered skull cap. Both the skull cap and braids are characteristic of all school and university uniforms. Fake hair may be purchased at a number of Bazars in Ashgabat. I have resisted the seductive call of the fake hair thus far but I’ll keep you updated. I was surprised, however, that my hair was described as both short (it now stretches at least half way down my back) and red (it is inarguably brown). I was reminded, once again, that EVERYTHING, even color, is relative.

5. In a class of advanced students, we were debating what makes a good and what makes a bad teacher. In one activity, they were describing a teacher on her first day of teaching. Their description of an absolutely horrible teacher was by and large a physical description. This poor teacher had a hole in her shoe and sticks in her hair. Ha! I was reminded once again how serious appearance is here. I made sure to iron my blouse twice the next morning. In 115 degree heat, women will close windows to avoid messing up their hair! That’s commitment.

6. So I have this problem with white-washed walls. It is the same problem I have with chalk. It is the same problem I had with mud when I was 5 (read: when I was in a country that had mud). I always get it all over me. But not to worry! The teachers and even students have me covered. They are constantly brushing off my back, my shoulders, and my sleeves. I’m no longer embarrassed about it. It is kinda of a joke for our department. However, it reached a new low last week after I brushed the back of my right shoulder against the wall in the English department office. Both of the young male teachers in our department did simultaneously came to my rescue. HA! Can you imagine? I had two men falling over me to brush a white-wash spot off my shoulder.

7. Last week, I had a cold and as a result, I lost my voice. All day everyday, I had people expressing their condolences for my voice. After initial concern, a twinkle would light up their eyes and a hint of accusation would creep into their voice. “Did you eat ice-cream or drink cold water??” I was posed this question at least 15 times a day. I abstained from those tempting 15 cent ice-creams just so I could assure them that, no, the ice-cream was not at fault. After two days of this, my patience was a tad bit stretched. This is what an ice-creamless life does to me. I walked into the Peace Corps guard shack excepting, for some unknown reason, understanding. Perhaps they would encourage me to visit the medical staff, acquire medication of some sort, or perhaps rest. I was relieved when the initial concern did not digress to accusation. I couldn’t help laughing (soundlessly) when the concern gave way to a conspiratory wink and a “it was the cold beer huh?”

8. Ok. This one is a bit embarrassing and I can’t believe I’m gonna put it on the world wide web but here goes. So my supervisor is approximately four feet tall. I am not four feet tall. I am a solid 5.7. I had just helped her use the computer to find and print some document or another. She was standing in front of me to thank me for my help when this huge smile lit up her face. You are a good Muslim! She said in perfect English. I was really confused. She laughed and reached up to pat me on the shoulder. “You have something that all good Muslims have,” she said. “A chin hair!”

Chin hair and all, I’m heading into my second year of service. I’m still working on the cultural adaptation, but I’m thoroughly enjoying myself in the process.

I miss you all.

Tess